When Canadian mining company Lucara Diamond Corp revealed its discovery of a stunning 2,492-carat diamond in Botswana in late August, many geologists worldwide were taken aback in disbelief.

Had she been alive today, Oscar-winning actress Elizabeth Taylor would likely have had a memorable reaction to such a find. Famous for her saying, “big girls need big diamonds,” her passion for jewelry was legendary—her private collection included the remarkable 69-carat Taylor-Burton diamond, far exceeding the average engagement ring diamond in the U.S. today by more than 60 times.

So, what draws people to diamonds, and what makes this gemstone so extraordinary? The answer is as complex as a brilliantly cut diamond itself, beginning with its unique properties as the hardest natural substance on earth, boasting the highest thermal conductivity.

‘Tears of the Gods’

Diamonds were first discovered in India, where they were thought to be created by lightning striking rocks. The ancient Greeks believed they were either tears from the gods or fragments of fallen stars. For centuries, their brilliance and hardness made them highly prized, as they were thought to possess medicinal and magical properties. Indian royalty adorned themselves with uncut diamonds, using them as protective talismans in battle.

By the early 14th century, diamonds from India began arriving in major European cities, leading to the emergence of cutting industries in Venice and Bruges.

The tradition of diamond engagement rings began with Archduke Maximilian of Austria, who presented one to Mary of Burgundy in 1477. However, it was Jean-Baptiste Tavernier, a 17th-century French gem merchant and explorer, who captivated Europe’s elite with diamonds.

Tavernier made numerous voyages to India and Persia, returning with exquisite stones that appealed to royal courts, including King Louis XIV of France, a fervent diamond enthusiast.

Historian Aja Raden notes that the fascination with diamonds stems from both psychological and optical factors. “We are instinctively drawn to sparkle,” she explains, linking it to an innate survival instinct, as shiny objects often indicate water, essential for life.

The Slogan of the Century

On the flip side, Raden emphasizes that diamonds have been the focus of a century-long marketing campaign that borders on psychological manipulation. This refers to De Beers, founded by British imperialist Cecil Rhodes in 1888, which dominated global diamond production for over a century. Faced with a flood of diamonds from South Africa, Rhodes recognized the need to control supply to maintain their value.

Following a slump in sales after the Great Depression, De Beers turned to the Philadelphia advertising agency N.W. Ayer & Son to revive interest. Their 1948 campaign was revolutionary, coining the phrase “A Diamond is Forever,” which not only linked diamonds with romance and eternal love but also utilized product placement in Hollywood films and music, embedding diamonds in popular culture.

As a result, sales of diamond engagement rings surged, and the phrase “A Diamond is Forever” remains iconic, earning the title of the advertising slogan of the century in 1999.

Sparkles in Popular Culture

Diamonds have also illuminated the realms of art, music, and literature over the ages. The earliest printed book, the “Diamond Sutra,” dating back to 868 in China, uses diamonds metaphorically to “cut through” illusion and discover pure truth.

In literature, diamonds inspired genres; Wilkie Collins’ 1868 novel “The Moonstone,” about a stolen Indian diamond, laid the groundwork for modern detective fiction.

The allure of diamonds continues in popular music, evident in songs like The Beatles’ “Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds” and Rihanna’s hit “Diamonds.”

Artists have explored the duality of diamonds, representing both luxury and consumerism. Andy Warhol’s 1980 “Diamond Dust Shoes” featured real diamond dust, while Damien Hirst’s diamond-encrusted skull challenged perceptions of opulence.

Today, diamond dust is used in various applications, from precision tools to upscale skincare products, with ongoing research into diamonds as next-generation semiconductor materials.

The Dark Side of Diamonds

However, the diamond narrative isn’t entirely glittering; many famous stones carry a legacy of colonialism, such as the renowned Koh-i-Noor, a centerpiece of the British Crown Jewels. This 105-carat diamond, originally from India, passed through centuries of intrigue and conquests, ending up with Queen Victoria after being handed over by the 10-year-old Maharaja of Punjab in 1849.

Following Queen Elizabeth II’s passing in September 2022, calls for the Koh-i-Noor’s return have intensified, and its omission from Queen Consort Camilla’s crown for King Charles’ coronation was interpreted as both diplomatic sensitivity and an attempt to navigate controversy.

Canadian-Indian artist Reena Ahluwalia, who has made the Koh-i-Noor a central theme in her art, considers it a symbol fraught with conflict for many Indians. “It represents more than just a precious gem,” she asserts. “Originating in India, it embodies both pride and a painful reminder of colonial history.”

The darker side of diamonds has also been popularized in culture, particularly through the term “blood diamonds,” which emerged in the 1990s to describe diamonds mined and sold to fund armed conflicts, notably in Sierra Leone and Angola.

A global outcry led to the establishment of a certification system in 2003 to regulate the rough diamond trade. The issue gained further attention when Hollywood depicted it in the film “Blood Diamond,” showcasing the violence associated with the trade.

As Sierra Leonean designer Satta Matturi points out, “Provenance is crucial in today’s world. It’s not just a luxury; it must be integral to our practices.”

“I believe there’s no excuse for anyone in the industry to source irresponsibly, as technology now exists to ensure ethical practices.”