In the second episode of the captivating and self-celebratory fashion docuseries “In Vogue: The ’90s,” Anna Wintour refers to London as the “place you went to look for the best talent.” While fashion week was officially established in London in 1984, it was the late ’90s and early 2000s shows that truly propelled the city onto the global fashion stage. This era was marked by chaos, intensity, and transformation—a fashion week equivalent to adolescence.

During this time, designers like Lee Alexander McQueen were pushing boundaries with groundbreaking presentations, such as a collection featuring ink spreading across an acrylic runway, models drenched in rain, and dramatic finales with live moths. Hussein Chalayan tackled themes of immigration and women’s rights through transformative designs, while Julien Macdonald closed shows with iconic figures like Scary Spice and the Jagger sisters.

This was a time before digital fashion and social media. To witness the spectacle, attendees had to be present, navigating through crowded venues and enduring discomfort as part of the experience. Edward Enninful, who directed i-D magazine in the ’90s, aptly noted, “The word commercial was the dirtiest word.”

As I reflected on this during a weekend of shows in London, I attended Emilia Wickstead’s presentation, showcasing candy-colored trousers and layered floral dresses. At the British Museum, Erdem paid tribute to LGBTQ+ writer Radclyffe Hall with a blend of tailored suits and delicate 1920s dresses. At the Old Bailey, Simone Rocha’s collection combined tutus and artistic inspirations, exploring the darker side of creativity.

London Fashion Week today is more polished and organized than in the past, with shows starting on time and many taking place in iconic venues. Caroline Rush, CEO of the British Fashion Council, explained that celebrating LFW at 40 signifies a new life stage—psychologically entering middle age.

Jonathan Anderson, who runs both his own brand and Loewe, often experiments with unconventional designs. This season, however, his creations felt more subtly innovative rather than groundbreaking. Meanwhile, many emerging labels, like Standing Ground and S.S.Daley, appear to focus on steady growth rather than radical disruption.

Burberry, once the epitome of British fashion, has transitioned into a major player in London’s fashion narrative. Following its reinvention in the late ’90s, it became a central force in the industry. Today, it continues to draw celebrity attention, although it faces challenges that have recently seen it drop from the FTSE 100. New CEO Daniel Lee is navigating this landscape cautiously, presenting outerwear that is well-executed but lacking in true inspiration. As Lee searches for Burberry’s identity, the industry may find itself yearning for more than just routine performances.