What purpose does a stylist serve for the first lady of a country engaged in conflict?
Written by Vanessa Friedman During the NATO summit in Washington on Tuesday, numerous world leaders gathered, including Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelenskyy, whose plea for ongoing international support in Ukraine's conflict with Russia was a focal point.
Written by Vanessa Friedman
During the NATO summit in Washington on Tuesday, numerous world leaders gathered, including Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelenskyy, whose plea for ongoing international support in Ukraine’s conflict with Russia was a focal point. Joining him was his wife, Olena Zelenska, who made a rare appearance and became the first first lady to address Congress in 2022.
On this occasion, surrounded by other NATO spouses, Zelenska’s attire was purposeful, guided by Natasha Kamenska, a designer and co-founder of Gunia Project, who has been styling her since mid-2021.
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Here, Kamenska discusses the role of fashion in shaping the image of a first lady during a time of crisis and its impact on global perception.
This interview has been edited and condensed.
Q: Why does a first lady in a country at war need a stylist?
A: Fashion is an additional tool for us to speak about Ukrainians, showcasing our designers and their talent. It’s a subtle way to highlight more serious issues during major public appearances, where every detail can support her cause. Throughout most days, she cannot leave her secure compound, go shopping, or move freely due to safety concerns. Even during business trips, it’s limited to airports, hotels, and meetings.
Q: And how do you assist with this?
A: We aimed to include as many Ukrainian brands as possible during this trip to demonstrate resilience despite ongoing challenges like shelling and power outages.
Q: How many Ukrainian brands did she wear in Washington?
A: At least nine. For instance, at the Holodomor Memorial, she wore a vyshyvanka by Gaptuvalnya, emphasizing Ukrainian cultural symbols. Her skirt was by Kyiv-based brand AMG. The following day, she wore a three-piece suit by Article Blazers, featuring our national colors through a Ruslan Baginskiy brooch.
Q: Her black and white dress for the social dinner was quite striking.
A: It was chosen purposefully to symbolize the refinement, femininity, and strength embodied by Ukrainian women. The dress is from The Coat, founded by Katya Silchenko, who also reflects these qualities.
Q: How much time do you have to prepare before major foreign trips?
A: About a week, considering security concerns. It’s crucial for us to communicate through clothing, so sometimes it involves urgent calls to designers.
Q: How did you start working with Zelenska?
A: When her husband was elected, there was a desire to express something new through their public image. Originally, she worked with two stylists, but managing the schedule of a first couple is challenging. I was offered the opportunity when one stylist needed to step back.
Q: What was your first impression of her?
A: Our first meeting was a Zoom interview, followed by dinner at her home. I was struck by her casual attire—hoodie, jeans, sneakers. She showed me around, introduced me to her pets, and cooked steaks. It was a glimpse into their everyday lives.
Q: How did fashion become part of the war effort?
A: Initially, Olena opted against styling or makeup, focusing on more pressing matters. I remained in Kyiv to support her and Gunia amid the turmoil, emphasizing our commitment to Ukraine through our work.
Q: When did Zelenska decide fashion could play a role?
A: As she resumed public engagements and meetings with international leaders, we began strategically incorporating fashion to amplify her message. For her address to the U.S. Congress, every detail was carefully planned to enhance her speech.
Q: Was fashion traditionally a topic of interest regarding Ukraine’s first ladies?
A: Not until now. Olena Zelenska is the first to use contemporary Ukrainian designers for her public appearances, moving beyond traditional attire seen on Independence Day.